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Articles / "chateau-bastards" French wine exports go well:
For one decade the New World countries (Australia, California, Chile) sell their wines cheap and well. French producers look at the disaster like a fat cow looking the trains passing by.
Enough! The French are taking over. How? With humour and nice labels. The wine we export is still average, but who cares? And how could it be different at this scale. We're talking about millions of litres here.
Since a bunch of wine producers have learned English (or, more possible, have given work to English marketers), we export millions of bottles and all is well, thanks. Look at this marvellous "arrogant frog" bottle.
According to the American Time magazine http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1954571,00.html#ixzz0d9wRAG5h
"A mini revolution is taking place in the French wine industry. Some wine makers argue that the French have for too long clung to a romanticized notion of terroir and a convoluted labeling system, the appellation d'origine controlée (AOC), which makes it difficult for consumers to figure out that a Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu Premiere Cru is a Burgundy wine — let alone a pinot noir."
Touché! But... What does it really mean? That even the Times' reporter has enough of these complex names... He just wants a nice label on the bottle, like "chateau-bastard", "Bois-moi" ("drink me"). I can guess that such bottles would be sold well in the American campus areas.
Arrogant frog un jour, arrogant frog toujours
"Some French wine makers are already enjoying success under the new system. The wine maker Chamarré, whose motto is "Made in France, Enjoyed Everywhere," only produced its first batch five years ago but today exports to some 30 countries. It has done well by abandoning the notion of terroir — it sources its grapes from thousands of growers across France to produce single varietal and assemblage wines with straightforward, stylish labels.”
Abandoning the notion of terroir... I won't translate it to the owner of the wine shop of my corner in Paris, because he would commit suicide. It only means that abandoning the idea of making good wines, M. Chamarré sells thousands barrels of "PIQUETTE" (wine that homeless people drink to keep warm during winter) contributing to the global happiness....
What the Time article means between the lines, is that origin of the grapes doesn't really matter.
That you can mix grapes, no matter the region or even the country of origin. Burying the first amendment of all respectable wine makers. Quicker than a gulping of Vieux-Papes.
But wine doesn't “function” like dogs. A Canadian Jack Russell will certainly make beautiful puppies with a female French Jack Russell. But just mix several Syrah grapes (a typical type of grape) from several regions and this will make a wine barely correct.
But it's easy to produce millions of bottles like that. And so easy to sell it overseas with a funny labels... For the newbies... So if you want to impress your relatives, go for the funny labels! Your friend or your fiancée will enjoy, and you will spend a nice evening! The French will keep the terroir sugar for them... Arrogant frogs.
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